Kathmandu
The capital is a sensory assault in the best possible way. In the labyrinthine alleys of Thamel, the air smells of sandalwood and diesel, and the narrow streets overflow with trekking gear shops, rooftop cafes, and ancient shrines that predate Columbus. Durbar Square, despite earthquake damage, remains a masterpiece of Newar architecture—wooden temples intricately carved with erotic figures and deities, where sadhus with painted faces sit contemplating eternity. Visit the Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple) at sunset, when the eyes of Buddha—painted on all four sides of the white dome—seem to watch the valley turn gold.
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